Climbing News

The BETA Climbing Team goes to NATIONALS!

Three times a week at BETA you’ll find a group of dedicated climbers. They meet under the lead wall around 5pm. Led by three coaches, theses crushers warm up, train hard and climb even harder. You’ve probably seen them warm up on your projects (or at least mine…) That’s the BETA Climbing Team. A group of kids ages 11 through 17 that have the spark of competition in their souls and the love of climbing in their hearts. After months of training, six of these climbers are heading down to Reach Climbing in Bridgeport, PA for the Youth Sport and Speed Nationals this weekend. Let’s wish them luck! Send everything BCT!

Below is a short interview with Head Coach of the BETA Climbing Team, Jeremy Meza. 

Q: Do you have experience with being a competitor yourself?

A: Yes, a very very very long time ago. I competed on the youth circuit for 4 years from 2001 to 2004. I made it the national level at that time. In 2001 it was originally Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA) when I started. 

Q: What is your role as a coach?

A: When it comes to coaching climbing, it has an artistic side to it because it’s so open for each individual. Coaching is about learning how to communicate one idea to 50 different kids, each kid will receive it differently. You also have to learn how to build people constructively. The main goal as a coach is to have a structure for each kid. It’s a lot its fun. 

Q: How has it been coaching BCT since BETA opened?

A: Un-expected. You don’t uproot completely from one side of the country [California] to the other and expect in a new gym to send half of your team to sport and speed nationals. They came from a different background and I think I gave them something different that assisted their growth. Overall it’s been unexpected and surprising. Each kid brings something different to the team. I love the challenge that each kid brings.

Q: How have they progressed?

A: Their confidence has grown in each of them.

Q: Favorite part about coaching?

A: When you’re learning how to climb and you have an aha moment, I can relive that moment through these kids.  For example, when they learn how to clip or learn a specific boulder movement and it clicks to them. I can live vicariously. 

Q: One tip for any young climber?

A: The best climber is the one having the most fun. I remember those trips the most where I spent a day climbing a bunch of v2s over my big sending trips.

Written by Kody Tolentino

Edited by Nora Maklad

Climbing at The Olympics Games!

Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games will feature the sport we all know and love...climbing. A total of 40 climbers from around the world, equal parts men and women, will gather to represent their countries in these exciting games. Each competitor must take part in the three main climbing disciplines: Bouldering, Sport/Lead Climbing, and Speed Climbing. Climbers will be awarded the Gold, Silver or Bronze medal for their combined performance in all three disciplines. 


Bouldering

Competitors will be climbing along a four meter (13’) walls attempting to climb from a designated starting hold to the finish hold. Simply put, they have to climb 4 different climbs with 4 minutes per climb, which will test the athletes in multiple ways. The climbers that complete each climb with fewer attempts will rank higher than the other competitors. 

Lead Climbing

Lead climbing requires climbers to climb up to 15 meters (50’) while securing their rope through quickdraws to the anchors.Unlike bouldering, climbers are given six minutes and one attempt to send. 

Speed

Speed Climbing seems pretty simple, but it’s much more complex than just beating the other climber to the top. Climbers, attached to specially designed speed auto belays, attempt to top a 15 meter (50’) wall with a five degree overhang. Unlike the other disciplines, speed routes are standardized. There are 20 holds with 11 feet that can be found in many gyms, including your neighborhood BETA! 

* Fun Fact - World Record is held Reza Alipour with 5.63 seconds!


The first climbing qualification with take place in Tokyo this coming August. Stay tuned to the BETA Blog to see who Climbing’s first Olympic athletes will be! But as we wait, let’s hope Team USA can send everything! USA USA USA!

Enjoyed watching Alex Honnold in Free Solo? Check out his take on Speed Climbing in the video below.

Written by Kody Tolentino

Edited by Nora Maklad